A watch can signal taste without saying a word. A pair of carefully chosen sneakers can define an outfit. Even eyewear has evolved from a functional necessity into a marker of personal style. Yet when it comes to jewellery, many men still face a narrower choice: traditional pieces that carry cultural or ceremonial associations, or trend-led designs that can feel difficult to wear beyond a particular look.The missing middle is where the next shift in men’s luxury may be taking shape. Men are increasingly looking for jewellery that feels personal.For Agastya Sonani, co-founder and CEO, Sonani Jewels, this points to a gap in how the jewellery industry understands its male customer. “The space between the two is close to empty, and that is where most men are actually looking,” he says, referring to the divide between traditional, heavier designs and fashion jewellery built around fleeting trends.
From occasion dressing to everyday expression
In India, jewellery for men has long occupied a distinct cultural space.”Men’s jewellery has long been tied to occasions, ritual or family expectation: a chain at a wedding, a ring chosen on astrological advice, a gift from someone else,” says Sonani.These associations remain meaningful, but they have also shaped the way men encounter jewellery: often as something acquired for a particular occasion or through someone else’s recommendation, rather than chosen as an everyday expression of individual taste.That relationship is beginning to broaden. As men become more deliberate about grooming, clothing and accessories, jewellery has the potential to become another element of personal style. The shift is not necessarily towards wearing more, but towards choosing better.Retail, however, has not always kept pace, notes Sonani. Jewellery stores are frequently organised around extensive women’s collections, with men’s designs occupying a smaller section. The result can be a limited choice of silhouettes, finishes and proportions, leaving men to adapt their preferences to what is available rather than finding pieces designed around how they dress and live.
The luxury of getting the proportions right
In this emerging category, restraint can be more demanding than excess. A large pendant or an oversized ring immediately establishes its presence; a slim chain or understated band has to earn its place through proportion, finish and comfort.Sonani argues that practical considerations are central to the design process. Men’s jewellery must sit comfortably alongside a watch, work through a full day and feel natural across different settings. Weight, fit and ease of wear are not minor technical details; they can determine whether a piece becomes part of someone’s daily wardrobe or remains forgotten in a drawer.This is where jewellery begins to borrow from the logic of modern accessories. The most versatile pieces do not require an entirely new outfit or a particular occasion. They integrate into what a person already owns, adding character without overwhelming it.
How lab-grown diamonds could change the equation
Lab-grown diamonds may offer another route into the category, believes Sonani because they can cost less than comparable mined diamonds, they may make certain designs more accessible to buyers who want to experiment with jewellery without treating every purchase as a major milestone.That affordability can change the shopping experience. Instead of buying a single piece for a wedding or anniversary, a customer may be more willing to compare designs, explore different finishes and gradually build a collection. The shift is from a purchase justified by an occasion to one driven by everyday use.Price alone, however, will not create a lasting category. Men will need designs that feel distinctive, well-made and relevant to their lives, alongside clear information about materials, durability and value.
The next frontier is personal, not louder
Men’s luxury jewellery does not necessarily need to imitate women’s collections or rely on oversized designs to establish its identity. Its opportunity lies in treating men as jewellery buyers in their own right, with preferences that extend beyond ceremonial gold and passing fashion trends.As Sonani puts it, “The category needs now is design that treats men as regular jewellery buyers and not as an extension of the women’s line.”The larger change is cultural as much as commercial. When a man can choose a ring simply because he likes its shape, or wear a chain without needing an occasion to justify it, jewellery becomes less about convention and more about individual expression. The next frontier in men’s luxury may not be about wearing more jewellery at all. It may be about finally having pieces worth wearing every day.